W)Taps SS13: Nothing surplus to requirements here

Part of the appeal of W)Taps is the timeless nature of the military-inspired collections. Haters might label it military surplus but it's a bit more than that, in terms of quality and looks.

This is a bit Real McCoys or Buzz Rickson's but without the slavish adherence to the original patterns and with one or two modern twists.

Think of it as re-imagined military surplus.

Rapha Raeburn wind jacket: things to do with parachutes

Who would have known that parachute silk would make the perfect cycling jacket material? Lightweight, inherently stashable and totally windproof. It makes sense when you think about it.

Something that didn't escape Christopher Raeburn, who is no stranger to parachute silk in creating his garments. This is a man who has built a brand from recycling military-grade clothing and equipment using cutting edge processes and adding a technical twist. Old parachutes have always been a favourite, inspired by a picture of his Gran getting married in a dress made from one in the Second World War. 

The collaboration with Rapha directly stems from Christopher's brother Graeme, who has designed Rapha's products from the outset. The only real surprise, given the obvious compatibility of the two brands and the fact that they are brothers, is that the collaboration has taken this long to come to fruition.

But it is here now, in the form of a capsule collection of three pieces - a pair of jeans, a henley T-shirt and the key item, a city windproof jacket. This is so limited in production that it is individually numbered and is available in only three colours, orange, white and green, dictated by the colours of military issue parachute canopies. Only 600 pieces have been produced: 300 white, 200 green and 100 orange. 

They are handmade in England at Cooper & Stollbrand's factory in Manchester, the manufacturer of the Private White VC brand, and as you would expect from individually numbered pieces (number 13 is stitched on upside down in cycling tradition to avoid bad luck), each one is unique, often bearing the original USAF serial numbers which offer a reference to the material's original purpose. As you would also expect, the jackets are exquisitely made, with industry-leading Swiss Riri zip fastenings, glove-friendly neoprene cuffs and a hood that rolls up neatly and secures behind a Rapha Raeburn branded snap-rivet. 

Mid-ride safety has also been incorporated, with high-viz reflective seam strips which give the rider a Tron-like glow and a reflective polka dot screen print to the sleeves offering a twist on a digital camouflage pattern. 

The one thing the jacket does not purport to be, however, is waterproof, although a quick Google search has uncovered forum posts from people who have successfully waterproofed parachute silk using proofing spray. 

How the Rapha Raeburn rain jacket would stand up to a squirt from Rapha reproofer is as yet undocumented but it would make what is destined to become a classic in cycling jacket design nothing short of perfection. 

It is close to that already.

Golden Bear varsity jacket: throwback

With its laid-back undertones which evoke feelings of college ball games even if you never went to college in the US, the varsity jacket has become a perennial favourite. The various styles and interpretations are legion bit this has to be one of the better offerings out there, and at a decent price too. Find it here

Acronym SS13: armed and ready

Acronym produces highly technical apparel with clear military influences using some of the most advance fabrics known to man. The stuff is pretty much the same from season to season with maybe the odd tweak here and there and the introduction of a few new designs. But essentially it doesn't date, which is a good thing when you get to find out the price tag.

It has been labelled urban armour and it's easy to see why. It's also easy to see where the company is based and produces the majority of its goods - it is German in style and construction. It could be nothing else. It is also reliably rugged, which is handy.

Visvim for women: why should blokes get all the best gear?

It was inevitable really that Hiroki Nakamura would launch a womenswear collection. In fact the only surprise is that it took him this long.

Visvim has dabbled with female garments before, but never as a complete collection - more the odd pair of shoes or skirt. I think there was a pink ballistic rucksack once.

This time, the WMV offers the full head-to-toe ensemble, and aside from the knee-length boots and smiley face arm patches, to look at it you would think it was for fellas. You have high tops, gingham shirts, t-shirts in suitably soft jersey, stoles, everything the Visvim aficionado would expect.

So if you're into the brand you'd better hope she doesn't get into it too, because you could have all sorts of bother when it comes to getting it out of the washing machine.

Nigel Cabourn spring summer 2013: Cover me

Nigel Cabourn has wheeled out another solid collection for spring summer 2013 offering a fresh twist on his usual military influences. This time around he's taken seam taping to a new level and controversially applied it on the outside of the garment. Sure to get a few nods of approval, as is the continued use of camoflage, although in typical Cabourn style, he's delved deep into the archives of military sartorial history and used a British commando camouflage from the Second World War. None of your digi pattern around here.

http://www.cabourn.com/collections/authentic

CP Company 24 Project: say it like it is

CP Company has been busy on another project, using as its inspiration the trials and tribulations of everyday city life, from the point of view of a jacket.

"People aim at surviving, they tend to adapt to the surrounding environment," says the promotional guff. "At every hour, they are stimulated by different spurs: every hour of the day is made of different meetings in places with the most diverse characteritics. It is possible to wake up in a spot of the world and fall asleep in another one, maybe located at its antipode."

And that is more or less where it lost me. No idea what it means, and I challenge anyone at CP Company to explain it in any way that might be considered understandable.

The bottom line is they've released this really cool jacket. It has a detachable hood and taped seams and looks the bollocks. Apparently there's another one which looks just as sharp.

There you go CP Company. You can have that sentence for free.

Stussy Spring / Summer 2013 lookbook: warming up

It might still be cold enough to freeze your eyes together out there but this is the time of year our attentions turn to brighter days, when you don't need to wrap up like Shackleton. 

Enter the Stussy lookbook by Kenneth Cappello. Not a duffle coat in sight and plenty of  shorts and sun and stuff. And skateboards. And California. 

It's enough to make you want to take your jumper off.